I have always wanted to learn how to surf. I decided it was about time I actually tried. I went down to the beach today and rented a board. I got out there and immediately felt like I was going to drown. It was so hard to worry about the board while I was trying not to go under. I was getting very discouraged. After sitting out for a while I decided to give it another try. Luckily the storm from last night had finally passed. This time the waves were way more manageable. I could focus on actually standing on the board instead of thinking about drowning. It's actually a lot more tiring than it looks. It is really fun though. I thought at first I was going to be reporting back that I hated it. However once the ocean cooperated I had a good time. I learned a couple of things also. 1. most of the people out in the ocean on the surf beach do not actually know what they are doing. They are just better at hiding it. 2. The leash is constantly in the way. It tripped me many times but it's actually very important. 3. Wear shorts and a shirt over your bathing suit unless you want the moon everyone on the beach. You will not have any free hands to hold up your clothes. 4. When you are thinking about surfing you forget that the ocean is freezing cold. That must be why surfers can go out all year round.
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